Shipping Label Printing for the Masses

So why the hating on Dymo?

So, which printer do I buy?

  • You are almost always going to want to be printing on 4*6 labels. It’s what all the shipping sites use.
  • Buy your labels on a roll, but not a big giant one. If you’re not printing from a roll, there’s a slot to pass labels through from a box.
  • When you first get one, if you see any gaps in the printing, you need a new print head, or your barcodes won’t look right. These are cheap parts that are easy to replace. Search ebay for the part, YouTube for the instructions.
  • Often, if you find instructions that are written for a stock printer, they won’t work right on a UPS/Fedex one.
  • The official windows driver has managed to send a label calibration command to my printer (Fedex firmware) when nothing else I found worked. (Turning it on with the feed button held down doesn’t — this is part of Fedex/UPS’s lock-in, they wanted only their software to be able to do it).
  • If you find your labels are failing to print when there would be a solid black bar on the label, your power supply is going. Get a new one from Amazon.
  • According to the EPL Programming Guide (Here), the “xa” command can be used to trigger an autosense routine.
  • Some Adventurous Soul has done a much more technical teardown on trying to revert one of these things to the stock firmware.
  • Some printers have a feature where they can peel the label for you, which is pretty slick, and some will even detect when you’ve taken the label and hold on printing another until you take one. While this might be useful in an assembly line, I like being able to tear the label off with the backing still on it.
  • Here’s a link to the operating manual.

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Gushi/Dan Mahoney is a sysadmin/network operator in Northern Washington, working for a global non-profit, as well as individually.

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Gushi

Gushi

Gushi/Dan Mahoney is a sysadmin/network operator in Northern Washington, working for a global non-profit, as well as individually.

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